Planting/Privacy Screen

Tuesday, June 8th, 2010

Planting screens are becoming more and more popular.  I do still like a 6′ privacy fence when the situation calls for it.  But, if you would like a natural looking wall of green that gets bigger and better with time, a living fence is for you. 

Evergreen vs. Deciduous,(leafy): Evergreens are great for year round privacy, they do grow a little slower and have a couple of potential problems if not addressed on the front end.  Winter burn from water loss due to inadequate moisture in the fall preceding current Winter.  Southern exposure issues with confused intercellular frozen water thawing then freezing when the sun goes down killing the cells, and perceived crowding.  Deciduous plants are great because of rapid growth, foliage color variation, blooms and leaf movement.  I love to plant screens with both evergreen and deciduous plants.  Most evergreens are generally triangular in shape while most deciduous trees are the opposite, planting together will help give you a great full instant block.  Planting screens are meant to be planted close together to allow the branches/needles to grow together and “block” the desired view.  

   A Planting screen can be as simple as planting 7 Lilac shrubs in a row along your property line or as intense as 25, 10′ Black Hills Spruce Trees along a busy street.

Planting screens also help block noise.  Look around, you will see smartly placed planting for many reasons throughout your area.

I do recommend to plant the screen initially with sizable plants to give the screen a chance to acclimate itself while giving visual benefit.  If you do plant small choose a fast growing variety to, “start growing money on trees” which is what you are doing planting a living privacy fence.

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Pondless Waterfall

Monday, May 10th, 2010

Pond-less waterfalls have got to be just about the most amazing landscape feature to have on your property.  The sight and sound of moving water will slow down the busiest of bodies to take breath and enjoy the view.  

No Maintenance: Pondless waterfalls require no chemicals or upkeep, just remove the pump before freeze, (unless you want to run the water year round with a small core heater).  

How it Works:  At the base of the waterfall where the water disappears into the ground there is a reservoir filled with rock.  All of the sides and shapes in the rock reservoir allow benifical bacterial to grow and filter the water.  A pump is also housed in this area to “pump” the water back to the top of the waterfall, anywhere from 1500 Gallons per hour to 9500.  There is a basin at the top of the falls in which the underground flexible tube connected to the pump pushes the water until the water “falls” into the stream.  There is a heavy duty underlayment and thick liner to keep the water contained.  Boulders or stone are used to naturalize the area while directing the water where to go.  An expanding waterfall foam is used to further control the flow of water maximizing those gallons per hour, but do not get the foam on your hands!    

Picture above is a pond-less waterfall with Limestone outcropping.  This picture pon the right is made with glacier boulders, and what a great way to disguise that air conditioner noise!  Below are a couple additional waterfalls throughout the west metro area.

Benefits:  Disguising Freeway noise, loud neighbors, barking dogs and urban sounds.  Adding a natural soothing sound to maximize the little time we have in our busy lives to relax. 

 

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Paver Patio Installation

Sunday, April 25th, 2010

Paver Patio Installation:

Site/Paver Planning:  When deciding where to locate your patio think of the following: Access, traffic flow, Sun/Shade, Overhead, utility, future construction, wind rain and snow.  There are many different types of pavers to use: different sizes, shapes, colors, finishing edges (tumbled/smooth), smooth surface, slightly dimpled surface to name a few.  There are even pavers made of recycled tires for load bearing demands on roof tops and decks.  Visit our links page of our website and check out a few of our favorite manufacturers, (Anchor, Belgard and Interlock). 

Excavation:  Dig about 8″ below your planned final grade.  If your patio is going to have a slope away from your house, make sure your excavation mirrors the desired slope, over time the pavers will match the excavation.  Try to incorporate your excess soil from your digging into your site to minimize trucking/hauling, (create a raised planting area for example).  If you have poor soils: extra base depth or re-enforced soil control fabric may be required.     

Base Material:  For basic paver installation in Minnesota, a 4-6″ deep gravel base is sufficient.  Use a well graded gravel rock, ( 3/4″ in diameter down to dust including equal amount of each size), and compact in 2-3″ layers.  A plate compactor is the best method to compact large areas.  If you have a small walkway or tight area, a hand tamp can do the trick as well.  Make sure your gravel rock is not too wet or too dry, slightly moist is ideal.   

Bedding Sand:  Once your gravel base is properly compacted, Set 1″ diameter pipes along your gravel base in the direction of your slope, ( I use 1″ diameter chain link fence top rail pipes).  Cover the pipes and surrounding gravel with 1″ course sand, try not to get sand under the pipes.  Take a long 2×4, set it on the pipes and pull back, the sand will be very smooth with a constant depth once completed which will make setting the pavers very enjoyable. 

Paver Setting:  Before you start setting your pavers make sure to think through the design and layout.  Starting on the wrong side can make for a very tricky installation.  Most patios will have a border/solder course around the exterior all set in the same direction and a pattern inside set on a 90 degree or 45 degree axis in relationship to the border/solder.  Use a setting method called click and drop.  Just before letting go of each and every paver click it parallel to the paver that it will adjoin and perpendicular to the bedding sand, then just slightly drop it straight down.  For the best results make sure the same person or style is used in setting all the pavers, (can create bedding sand creep/rolling pavers).  Depending on your pattern and paver you use, you may need to make cuts to have all the pavers fit correctly.  Use a diamond tipped circular blade, preferably with water circulating on the blade wile cutting, (better cuts and less wear on the blade).     

Edge Restraint:  Once the pavers are set and cut, install the edge.  Make sure to pull the bedding sand away from the pavers and set the edge ON THE GRAVEL BASE, not the sand, (a major installation problem in paver patios).  Setting the edge this way will prevent sand wash out which creates horizontal creep, (opening of the paver joints near the edges of the patio/driveway). 

Compaction:  Once the edge restraint is set, compact the paver without sand on the pavers.  Doing so will force the bedding sand up into the paver joints, (pavers have a small joint/space on all sides to allow them to lock in place) also will reduce the amount of joint sand needed.  Spread dry course sand over the paving surface and sweep into all the joints.  Compact the pavers to allow the sand particles to actually drop into voids/paver joints, while the pavers area vibrated, which is why it is very important to have dry sand.   

Polymeric Sand:  There is a joint sand which has polymers mixed in with the sand particles.  The sand behaves the same as regular sand when applied but, once swept into and blow off the surface you get the sand wet and it hardens.  Polymeric sand aids in water movement, insect control and wind damage, not to mention there are different colors.

Extras:  If you are cutting pavers make sure to wash of the paver after cutting.  There is a build up called efflorescence which is white deposit of calcium on a paver when cut with water, (If you cut dry, still wash off the paver or the next time it rains you will have a problem).  For more information check out ICPI.org (Interlocking Concrete Pavement Institute).

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What is a Raingarden?

Sunday, March 14th, 2010

A rain garden is a depression in the ground to help slow water from it’s final destination, watering the plants in the rain garden while letting storm sewers catch up from hard surface runoff.  Pictured first is an area of a homeowners property in Minnetonka where neighbors lawns are sloped so that water enters their back yard.  This rain garden was installed in the rear corner of the property to capture the runoff before it approached the homeowners house.  Works and looks nice too!

A rain garden is a very easy way to be green.  Rain Barrels are also a way to reuse rainwater, there are even rain barrel benches I have seen.  The general purpose of a rain barrel is to capture the water from your gutters and using it to water your plants instead of turning on your hose.

The pictures below are from a property in St. Louis Park where the homeowner had a negative slope toward the house with no where to direct water except against the foundation.  The solution was to install patios and walkways with a pitch into a  raingarded in the middle of the back yard.  Diverting the water into what else a rain garden.  Very cool homeowners by the way.   

When a rain garden in installed it is very important to not use equipment and compact the soil in the rain garden.  The soil needs to be somewhat “loose” to allow the water once it enters the rain garden to percolate into the soil, otherwise you will need to take a swim in your pool.

Rain Garden ground coverage can be either rock or mulch.  If you rock use a heavy duty landscape fabric, plant your trees, shrubs and perennials before you rock, trust me it will save you time.  If you mulch no need to use fabric you will want the mulch to be able to become part of the soil once broken down.

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Why you should plant a tree

Wednesday, February 24th, 2010

Planting a tree is a great way to add value to your landscape.  Trees have many obvious visual features that we all love and are aware of such as size, shape, and color.  A certified landscape professional can expose the less obvious functions of trees.  Here are a few ways we like to expand the benefits of trees throughout the community. 

Temperature control: Trees planted on the South side of homes help reduce air conditioning costs by shading out the heat of summer sun while evergreen trees planted on the Northwest side of homes help knock down chilly Winter winds.

Visual and Sound Barriers: Trees planted along busy streets help reduce traffic noise to surrounding homes while a properly planted screen of upright evergreens near busy street corners help block unwanted headlight from entering our homes.

Wind: Trees can be planted in rows as windbreaks and near open areas around our homes and businesses as obstructions.  In proper size order trees can be planted as deflections and the correct species can help filtrate the wind from our outdoor spaces. 

Value: To evaluate the value of trees in our landscapes the I.S.A. (International Society of Arboriculture) recommednds weighing 4 key points: size, type of tree, condition and location.  We recommend using these evaluation points before planting trees.  Call Landscape Charlie to maximize your property value and have us plant a couple of trees for you this Spring.  952-217-5590

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Landscape Mulch: Why? How? and When?

Friday, February 19th, 2010

Mulching helps soften the hard lines of our houses and is the easiest way to maintain your trees, shrubs and perennials.  Real Estate experts predict a 5-7% increase in perceived value of a home with a fresh layer of mulch.

Why? When mulch is applied on the soil above roots of plants we help control the environment of the soil.  Mulch holds water, helps block the sun from weed seeds in the soil to prevent germination and looks good.

How? Preferably we like a 3-4″ layer of a shreaded wood mulch.  Over time the mulch will break down and become part of the organic matter of the soil, to help feed our plants.  Actual shredded wood is better than wood chips due to size, shape and absorption of wood particles.

When? The best time to mulch is in the early Spring.  If mulch is applied before Spring growth begins, your exposure to unwanted weeds is minimized.  Throughout the season, mulch constantly breaks down and becomes part of the soil, it needs to be replenished.  If you have existing mulch I recommend a nice 1-2″ new layer every year.  We love to mulch and it is a low cost insurance for you trees, shrubs and perennials.

Try to use a mulch that is made from recycled materials.  When a log is milled to produce  2×4′s there are small amounts of debri which are turned into, what else, mulch!  Lawn clippings and yard debris work well too! 

My favorite place for mulch is The Mulch Store.  Check it out here: http://www.mulchstoremn.com/

Call or e-mail us today to get on our list!  952-217-5590 info@landscapecharlie.com

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Minnetonka Landscapes in Winter

Monday, February 15th, 2010

As we all know Winter in Minnesota is an opportunity to partake in many activities.  Why not be able to play hockey and ice skate in your own backyard?  Rink, liner, nets, lights and fire pit can all be installed.  Don’t forget the hot chocolate.  Contact Landscape Charlie to coordinate your rink for next Winter.  Spring is on the way!

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Announcing Landscape Charlie!

Monday, January 18th, 2010

Landscape CharlieIt’s 2010, Landscape Charlie is here! We offer landscape design, landscape installation and tree care services for all of the Twin Cities West Metro area. From replacing that old decaying timber wall for a natural boulder wall, to a screen of Arborvitae evergreens that help block the Winter winds or undesirable views.  Once a customer you’ll catch the contagious passion we have for  landscapes and life. We are excited and great at what we do. Check out our new website for more information and contact us if you have any questions.

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